Honoring the Ancestors: Ma’Nene tradition of Tana Toraja
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PHOTO ESSAY BY GARRY ANDREW LOTULUNG

The unusual tradition of Ma’nene in Indonesia’s Toraja region, in South Sulawesi shows families cleaning, dressing up, and even putting cigarettes into the mouths of the exhumed bodies of their dead relatives. While they are vacant, they also take the opportunity to clean their relatives’ crypts. It is a ritual that happens in August every three years— some families honor the ritual every five years.

Torajans spend an exuberant amount of time and money on funerals and subsequent rites, believing that death is not the end. It is important to appease the spirits of their ancestors because it is an accepted belief that if their ancestors are upset, this may very well result in a poor rice harvest. It is also not unusual for bodies to remain in homes for long periods after death, while families save for lavish funerals.

For Torajans, death is a gradual — and social — process. The bodies of people who have recently died are kept at home and preserved by their families, sometimes for years, until the family has enough money to pay for a funeral. The spirit of the dead is believed to linger in the world before the death ceremony is held. Afterward, the soul will begin its journey to “Puya”, the land of the spirits.

The longer the deceased person remains at home, the more the family can save for the funeral — and the bigger and more expensive the ceremony can be. Elaborate funeral ceremonies can last for 12 days and include the sacrifices of dozens of buffalos and hundreds of pigs. Such ceremonies can cost as much as hundreds of thousands of dollars.

Today, Torajans are largely Christian, but their age-old funeral practices
— which predate their conversion to Christianity — persist. Ma’nene’, for example, which is carried out for three years (or more, depending on the family’s agreement), is meant to be a way to honor deceased relatives. According to the belief, performing the rite will result in a better harvest in the following year.

(1). Family members hold up a mummy before giving it new clothes in a ritual in the Toraja district of Indonesia’s South Sulawesi Province, August 15, 2022.

(2). Men remove a coffin from a burial chamber cut into a massive boulder in the village of Pangala, Toraja district of Indonesia’s South Sulawesi Province, August 15, 2022.

(3). Preserved bodies are placed in the sun to dry and after that, the family takes care to remove the clothing that wraps the body before continuing the rituals of the manene in the village of Balle, Toraja district of Indonesia’s South Sulawesi Province, August 20, 2022.

(4). A relative gives money around the mummified body at the coffin during a ritual in the Toraja district of Indonesia’s South Sulawesi Province, August 18, 2022.

(5). Family members clean a mummy before giving it new clothes in a ritual in the village of Ampang Batu, Toraja district of Indonesia’s South Sulawesi Province, August 20, 2022.

(6). Preserved bodies are placed in the sun to dry in a ritual in the village of Pangala, Toraja district of Indonesia’s South Sulawesi Province, August 17, 2022.

(7). Relatives place new clothes on the dead body in a ritual in the village of Pangala, Toraja district of Indonesia’s South Sulawesi Province, August 17, 2022.

(8). An old man poses for a photo with the body of his brother and sister in a ritual in the village of Balle, Toraja district of Indonesia’s South Sulawesi Province, August 20, 2022.

(9). A woman covers the body of her sister with clothes on the coffin in a ritual in the Toraja district of Indonesia’s South Sulawesi Province, August 15, 2022.

(10). A man holding the traditional lamp on one side of the cave used as a tomb at Londa, Sandan Uai Village, Toraja district of Indonesia’s South Sulawesi Province, August 21, 2022.

Garry Andrew Lotulung
Photojournalist and Documentary Photographer

@garrylotulung
garrylotulung.com

The Jungle Journal
Archipelagos of South East Asia

Find more articles like this one in our last print issue where we feature Malaysia, Indonesia, and The Philippines.

In this issue we’ll learn about the traditional tattooing of the Kalinga with Vogue’s oldest cover star, Whang-od Oggay, the last traditional tattoo artist of the Philippines. Readers will discover one of the world’s oldest and most preserved hut dwellings at Wae-Rebo on Flores Island. This release will take readers to the western edges of Indonesia’s Archipelago and encounter the Korowai of Western Papua, where we learn more about one of the last tree-dwelling communities on the planet.